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This past weekend, shirking all the stuff that I should have been doing to get ready for my France trip, I headed down to the Canyonlands area to get my climb on. This trip, Demian Hanks and I headed up Washer Woman tower and Sister Superior. I am happy to report there was no major car damage this time around, with the drive out White Rim Trail going as smoothly as a very bumpy dirt road can go.

This trip brought my 5th desert tower in three weekends- not a bad Spring. I’m afraid that when I return it will be so hot that I won’t be able to find anybody crazy enough to head down to tower country (Gully….it can’t be any worse than the day we went up Monster, right? So you’re game, right?). So, the desert waits until later months. For now, there is French, brie and a new continent to explore.

In the meantime though, let me note a couple of things. For Washer Woman we took a double set of camalots from .5 to 3, a 3.5 and a 4, plus a set of TCUs and nuts. The gear was great. For Sister Superior we took nuts and a set of TCUs, three .5, four each of .75 and 1, two 2s and one 3. Also, the descent goes very well with one 70m rope (Washer Woman is much nicer with two ropes…worth hauling a second up there).

BUT, the gear list besides, I have to note the magic beta for the 2nd pitch of Jah Mon on Sister Superior. I hadn’t done this route in years and years, and I remember screwing up the sequence on that part several times. I don’t think the climbing is all that hard, but it is kinda sequential. Here’s the beta: climb up to the small roof, and pull into the undercling/lieback. Step left, staying high, and then reach through with your right hand to snag the impossible-to-see bomber finger lock (just left of the killer sidepull your left hand is on), Then drop your feet low, step down, and life will be golden. There, that’s the magic. Maybe I’ll remember it next time.

Peace out y’all. Save some summit towers for me while I’m away.

-c

This past weekend, the inimitable James Tucker and I went down to the Moab area to get our climb on. As climbing trips usually do, this one went a bit awry, but we still rallied and got a couple of cool routes in. The full series of photos can be found on my photos page, but I thought a bit of explanation was called for.

It all started innocently enough; the usual get-out-of-town-too-late, drive through the dark, heading south towards canyon country. James and I arrived in Moab around midnight, filled up on gas and water, and drove out to the end of Potash Road to the edge of Canyonlands National Park (no camping without a permit). Luckily, we were alone, far away from any people and any light pollution and enjoyed a beer or two before passing out in the warm night air.

Our goal this trip was the North Ridge of Monster Tower, which sits just off the White Rim Trail. The White Rim Trail is a 100-mile long 4×4 road that runs through Canyonlands and is a popular jeep and bike trail. After downing a quick breakfast of Annie’s Spaghettios (it has the preservatives a boy needs to climb all day long), we set off into Canyonlands and off towards our tower.

About 25 miles in or so, James spotted a piece of trash in the road, and asked me to stop so he could pick it up. He jumped out of the car, and I immediately heard a gushing noise. “My God,” I thought, “that boy really had to pee.” But that was not indeed what was going on.

“Uh, Chad, we have a problem.”
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Greetings all! This past weekend James and I headed down to Indian Creek and got our jam on. Here are some photos of our trip up Lightning Bolt Cracks on North Six Shooter.

Climb on!

-c

This year has been pretty snowy, wet and cold, but I was able to get out a bit and climb in March (it’s now April and I’m looking out my window at the drizzling snow). These are photos from a trip to Las Vegas for some Red Rocks climbing, and a weekend down in the San Rafael Swell, including a snowy stop over at the Diamond Forks hot springs.

And as an extra-special bonus, I have an extra-special nighttime stinky summit! Woo-hoo!

Yay for sun and warmth! Continue on with your day now.

-c

Now, I just have to do a cam-cleaning, and wax my snowboard….the smell of a season’s change is on the air. At least I’ve gone from the pile-on-the-floor method to something a bit more civilized.

-c